The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo”: More Than a Watch

You’ve probably heard of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo.” Who am I kidding, of course you have! Calling it just a watch feels wrong—it’s more like a statement piece that changed the game for luxury sports watches forever. Think of that sharp octagonal bezel, the visible screws that somehow look effortlessly cool, and that bracelet that flows right into the case. It’s bold, it’s classy, and it’s damn iconic.

A Revolutionary Design in 1972

The story starts in 1972. AP shook the watch world when Gerald Genta designed the original Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST. Imagine a steel sports watch that looked nothing like the rounded, safe designs of the time. Suddenly, you had a watch that was clearly luxurious but wasn’t made of gold, with a design that looked industrial but somehow elegant. For anyone trying to understand why this watch is legendary, that’s where it all started.

Source: WindVintage

Expanding the Line in the Late 1970s

Fast forward to 1977, and AP decided to mix things up. The Ref. 5402BA arrived in yellow gold, and it made people realise the Royal Oak wasn’t just a one-trick pony. Around the same time, the 5402SA (bicolour) and 5402BC (steel and white gold)showed off some more interesting combinations. Even today, you can see echoes of those bold choices in modern watches. Prices back then were way lower, but these models now fetch numbers in the hundreds of thousands of euros if you’re lucky enough to find one.

 

Sources: The watch club, Auction calendar, Deangelis

The 20th Anniversary “Jumbo” in 1992

Jump to 1992, and AP dropped the Ref. 14802ST, nicknamed the “Jumbo Anniversary.” This one celebrated 20 years of the Royal Oak and brought some thoughtful tweaks—thinner case, subtle updates, and that flawless finishing AP is famous for. It was the perfect example of AP showing they haven’t forgotten about the past while also innovating.

Source: Hairspring

Modern Touches in the 2000s

From the early 2000s, AP started exploring more modern touches while respecting the classic Jumbo design. In 2006, the Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref. 15202 hit the scene. This model leaned heavily into the original vibe of the 5402, keeping the slim profile and iconic dial layout, but with modern materials and finishing. Collectors went crazy for it, and prices today hover around €50,000–€60,000 for steel models, with gold or platinum versions well above that.

Source: Monochrome watches, Amsterdam Vintage 

Experimenting with Materials and Bold Designs

In the 2010s, AP got even bolder. They played with materials like titanium, forged carbon, and ceramic, giving the Royal Oak a futuristic edge while keeping that unmistakable design. Limited editions like the 2012 “Jumbo Openworked” skeleton dial watches showcased insane craftsmanship—AP basically turned the watch into a mechanical art piece. By now, a steel Jumbo could easily hit €70,000–€100,000 depending on rarity, and the crazy materials editions pushed even higher.

Source: MonochromeWatches

Keeping the Jumbo Fresh: 2020s Updates

Leading up to 2023, AP kept the Jumbo fresh without losing its soul. They introduced subtle updates to dials, bracelets, and movements—like new calibres that are slimmer, more accurate, and sometimes with crazy complications like minute repeaters or tourbillons.

The Ultimate Collector’s Piece in 2025

And here we are, looking at 2025. The Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD is basically AP throwing down the ultimate challenge. This thing mixes insane materials, crazy modern design, and their top-tier craftsmanship. If you’re a collector who lives for the bleeding edge, this is the watch to watch. Expect it to sit well into the €400,000–€500,000 range, depending on where and how you get it.

Source: Hodinkee

A Legacy of Iconic Design

Over more than 50 years, the Royal Oak has proved that it’s more than just a pretty watch. You can see it in the way modern brands try to balance toughness with elegance, or in that moment when you catch yourself staring at the screws on the bezel and thinking, “Yep, that’s genius.”