Rolex Pulls the Plug on Carl F. Bucherer – A 137-Year Watch Brand Ends

For watch lovers, today’s news is certainly not great. According to Swiss financial outlets Bilanz and Handelszeitung, Rolex is officially shutting down Carl F. Bucherer, the historic watch brand they acquired in 2023. The move, though not entirely unexpected from a business standpoint, still feels kinda sad for Swiss horology.

A Family Legacy Cut Short

Founded in 1888, Carl F. Bucherer was one of the last few Swiss brands still owned by its founding family before Rolex took over. For over a century, it quietly created a niche with solid in-house movements, traditional designs, and a reputation for quality. But in the corporate world, sentimentality rarely beats the bottom line. And let’s be honest - Bucherer’s watchmaking wasn’t exactly a cash cow.

With Rolex’s resources, some hoped the brand might get a second wind. Maybe a revamp? But that hope was short-lived. Instead, Rolex has chosen to focus purely on the retail and distribution side of Bucherer AG, leaving Carl F. Bucherer watches dwindle on its own.

Source: WatchIt

What Happens Now?

On morning of 7th February, employees were informed of the decision. As for what’s next, Rolex will slowly close the operations of Carl F. Bucherer watches, which included around 250 stores worldwide. That means if you’ve had your eye on a Bucherer piece - maybe the Manero Perpetual or the Heritage BiCompax Annual - now might be your last chance before they disappear from shelves for good.

Out of those 250 retail locations, 50 are Bucherer-owned (or part of its U.S. subsidiary, Tourneau). Those will likely swap out CFB pieces for brands with stronger market demand, probably ones Rolex has closer ties with, like Tudor.

Source: WatchIt

Why Did Rolex Shut It Down?

Let’s be real: Rolex is not in the business of charity. Carl F. Bucherer did make solid watches, but it never quite reached the prestige of a Patek Philippe, the desirability of Audemars Piguet, or even the level of Omega. The watches were good - sometimes even great - but they didn’t have the cult following needed to succeed in today’s ultra-competitive market.

Plus, it’s no secret that Rolex acquired Bucherer AG primarily for their retail dominance, not its watchmaking. Bucherer is one of the largest luxury watch retailers in the world, giving Rolex control over how their own watches are sold. The acquisition was a step for Rolex to keep an even tighter grip on its distribution, especially when it comes to managing supply, demand, and those infamous waitlists.

The Collectibility Factor

Now that Carl F. Bucherer is officially done, what does that mean for the watches already out there? Short term, expect a bit of chaos. Whenever a brand shuts down, there’s usually a surge of interest from collectors hoping to get a piece for themselves.

Discontinued watches, especially from brands with good history, often come to have a niche followings. If you’re into CFB, this could be the best time to secure one before prices go up.

 

Source: WatchIt

Final Thoughts

Losing a historic watch brand is never fun. While Carl F. Bucherer may not have been the hottest name in the industry, it had character. It had heritage. It had something. And for those of us who love the world of watchmaking, seeing another name disappear is a tough pill to swallow.

Rest in peace, Carl F. Bucherer. You had a good run.