New Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” Is a Breath of Fresh (Salt) Air

Most of the watch world still revolves around big wrists, big cases, and even bigger nostalgia. But something’s shifting - and Tudor might be helping push that change further along with their latest release: the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue.”

It’s based on last year’s 37mm BB54, which was already something of a sleeper hit among people who’ve been waiting forever for a smaller, serious dive watch that didn’t feel like it was just borrowed from someone else’s toolbox. Now, they’ve taken that same format and given it a new, bold dial - a shimmering, pale metallic blue that stands out but isn’t too loud. It’s priced at €4,130, and I’ve got a lot of thoughts.

Source: Hodinkee

Why the BB54 Hit So Hard in the First Place

The original Black Bay 54 dropped in 2023, and it felt like Tudor finally listened to a part of the community that’s usually left on read. A lot of us - men and women alike - have been asking for a solid, no-nonsense tool watch that doesn’t dominate your wrist. Something sporty and real, around the 36–38mm sweet spot, and with the same build quality we’ve come to expect from the brand’s dive offerings.

The BB54 nailed that. At 37mm, it wore comfortably on a wider range of wrists, and with its slim case profile and clean vintage cues, it felt like the little sibling of the beloved Black Bay Fifty-Eight - just more agile, more wearable. It wasn’t trying too hard, and that’s exactly why it worked.

I remember thinking, “Finally, a dive watch I’d actually want to wear all the time - not just when I’m trying to impress someone at a meeting.” It made dive watches feel fresh again.

Source: Hodinkee

The “Lagoon Blue” Version: A Statement Wrapped in Subtlety

Now Tudor’s added a new flavour: Lagoon Blue. It’s the same 37mm case, same MT5400 automatic movement (COSC-certified, of course), 200m water resistance, and all the same rugged specs. But this time, the dial is where things shift.

It’s a pale metallic blue-light, almost icy in tone, with a sandblasted texture that catches light in a way that feels more jewellery-adjacent than tool-forward. Add in a polished bezel and optional five-link bracelet with polished centre links, and you’ve got a watch that steps into dressier territory without fully leaving the dive watch camp.

For some, that’s going to be a welcome change. For others (myself included), it’s going to stir up mixed feelings.

Source: Hodinkee

The Dress Diver Dilemma

I love that Tudor’s taking chances. In a sea of black dials and red accents, the Lagoon Blue genuinely feels like an effort to try something new, especially when it comes to watches that might speak more directly to women, or just anyone who prefers something more compact and elegant and small.

But I also get a little protective of the original BB54’s tooly charm. The brushed bezel, the monochrome dial, the minimal flash - it all felt so purposeful. Now, with the polished links and bright dial, the Lagoon Blue comes across as a cousin who went away for a gap year and came back with jewellery and a new sense of style. Still family. Just… changed.

Still, the polish does something interesting. It lets this version of the 54 blend into a wider range of outfits and occasions. You could pair this with a linen shirt at a beach wedding, or wear it casually while sipping espresso in Sienna. It has versatility. But whether that works for you will depend on how much shine you’re comfortable with in a “dive” watch.

Source: Hodinkee

The Cultural Ripple

What I find most exciting about this release is what it might signal beyond Tudor itself. We’re seeing more momentum around properly sized sport watches - not just re-releases, but new releases, too. Blancpain just dropped a 38mm Fifty Fathoms. Brands are realising that there’s a huge gap between vintage-inspired cool and the literal sizing of vintage pieces, and modern tool watches don’t need to be 42mm bricks anymore.

The Lagoon Blue feels like part of that wave. And it also feels like a test. A way for Tudor to ask: can we add a bit of polish and colour and still keep our street cred?

Source: Hodinkee

Final Thoughts

The Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is going to divide people - and that’s a good thing. If we’re all agreeing, nothing’s moving forward. I think Tudor made a bold call here, dressing up a watch that was already beloved for its stripped-back simplicity. Some will say they made it “too pretty.” Others will call it a brilliant evolution.

Me? I think it’s a solid summer release. It doesn’t dethrone the original BB54 in my mind, but it brings something fresh to the lineup - something lighter, more fun, and unapologetically different.

Source: Hodinkee