A New Wave Of Controversy: The Patek Philippe Cubitus 40mm

Every now and then, a watch comes out that stirs things up. Not because it’s breaking the laws of physics or hiding a tourbillon behind a diamond-crusted trap door, but because it says: “Hey, this is where we are now.” That’s how I see the Patek Philippe Cubitus. Especially in this new 40mm version.

Patek has always been the grown-up in the room when it comes to Swiss watchmaking. But these days, when most people hear “Patek,” they think of one thing: the Nautilus. You know it. The slim, steel sports watch that went from underappreciated to absolutely untouchable in what felt like five minutes. 

That’s the thing about icons: they become too big for their own good. So when Patek discontinued the steel 5711 in 2022, people were confused. Was this the end of the road for the brand’s sports watch era?

Turns out, it was more of a pit stop.

Source: TeddyBaldassarre

Enter the Cubitus

Late last year, Patek Philippe dropped a bomb: its first new collection in 25 years. Cubitus - Latin for "elbow," though I’m guessing they were going for something a bit more architectural. Imagine a watch with a square case, industrial vibe, but still elegant enough for a dinner party.

The original Cubitus release included three models:

• 5821/1A-001: Stainless steel, olive green dial
  
  

• 5821/1AR-001: Steel and rose gold, blue dial
  
  

• 5822P-001: Full platinum, with big complications (calendar, moonphase)
  
  

All three shared strong Nautilus DNA, but with sharper lines and a case that doesn’t quite play by the old rules. The reactions were… passionate? Let’s just say they ranged from “Patek is back!” to “What the hell is this?”

But over time, people started to come around. The more you looked at the Cubitus, the more it felt familiar - like a cousin you hadn’t seen in years but somehow still recognised.

Source: TeddyBaldassarre

And Now, the 40mm Version

This year at Watches & Wonders, Patek showed two new time-only Cubitus models in 40mm - a size that honestly just works better for most people.

We got:

• Ref. 7128/1R: Rose gold case, chocolate-brown sunburst dial
  
  

• Ref. 7128/1G: White gold case, blue-grey dial
  
  

Both are powered by Patek’s automatic Caliber 26-330 S C/434, a movement you can admire through the square sapphire caseback. It’s got hacking seconds and a date display. Solid specs, but not the kind of thing that makes your jaw drop - and that’s okay. These watches aren't about complication flexing. Never was Nautilus, when you come to think about it.

The retail price is €70,400 for each.

Source: TeddyBaldassarre

Why 40mm Feels Right

Look, the original 45mm Cubitus was a bold move. But it was too much. A square 45mm case wears even bigger than a round one, and unless you’ve got wrists like a rugby player, it’s kind of overwhelming.

At 40mm, though? You get presence without the wrist takeover. The new size reminds me a bit of the old Nautilus 3800, one of my favourite vintage Pateks. The proportions just feel more wearable. I can imagine this working on a wide range of wrists - from seasoned collectors to younger buyers looking for something high-end but not obnoxious.

The Design: Still Square, Still Patek

Let’s talk shape. The square case is the most obvious change, and honestly, it gives the Cubitus its personality. It breaks away from the endless sea of round cases we see from most luxury brands. That said, this isn’t the first time Patek’s played with unusual geometry. Vintage references like the 5020 or 5035 also had quirky shapes and polarising designs.

What the Cubitus does well is pull from that past without feeling stuck in it. It’s modern, slightly brutalist, but still has that polished, top-shelf feel Patek is known for. The bracelet, for example, is nearly identical to the Nautilus, which is a good thing. Why fix what isn’t broken? It’s fluid, beautifully finished, and absurdly comfortable.

 

Source: TeddyBaldassarre

What It Says About Us

The Cubitus feels like a mirror, not just of Patek, but of us as watch lovers and consumers. We are, like it or not, addicted to sports watches. From the Royal Oak to the Overseas to the Nautilus, the demand hasn’t slowed down. And even though social media has made hype culture louder and messier, it’s also made watches more visible than ever before.

The Cubitus fits right into that ecosystem. It’s bold, flashy in its own refined way, and instantly recognisable. But it’s also more subtle than the hype might lead you to believe. If the steel 5711 was a status symbol during the crypto boom, the Cubitus feels like its next-gen evolution - still flex-worthy, but with sharper edges and slightly more attitude.

Source: TeddyBaldassarre

What’s Next?

It’s hard to say where the Cubitus will land in the long run. Maybe it becomes the new icon. Maybe it ends up a fascinating footnote in Patek’s history. But what’s clear is that the brand is willing to evolve, even if that evolution is a bit square.

To me, the Cubitus 40mm isn’t trying to be the next Nautilus. It’s more like a sibling who moved out, dropped out of school, and started doing alternative rock. You can still tell they’re family - but they’re doing their own thing now.

And honestly? I respect that.