MB&F’s Special Project One: A Small Watch With a Big Personality

When someone says “MB&F,” your mind probably jumps to things like flying saucers for your wrist or mechanical jellyfish in glass domes. And fair enough - Max Büsser and his Friends have built a cult following by doing things no one else even thinks of.

But this time around, they’ve done something kind of shocking - they made a small watch. And not just small for MB&F. We’re talking genuinely compact - 38mm across, 12mm thick, and offered in platinum or rose gold.

It’s called the Special Project One, or SP One, basically being MB&F’s idea of a dress watch. Don’t expect a Calatrava clone, though - this is still MB&F, and they don't do “normal.” But compared to their usual style, this is practically minimalist.

Source: Hodinkee

A New Kind of Simplicity

The SP One is what happens when a brand known for turning watches into kinetic art decides to try something quieter. There’s no tourbillon, no crazy domes, no secondary dials showing the time on Mars. Just hours and minutes.

That said, the way they’ve done it still feels very MB&F. The case has this smooth, rounded pebble shape that feels very non-watch-like. Instead of traditional lugs, the strap attaches via arms that connect directly to the caseback - the case itself almost seems to float inside the frame.

At 12mm thick, it’s not ultra-thin by most dress watch standards. But for MB&F, it’s almost flat. There’s one crown, placed unconventionally at 10 o’clock. No branding on the dial. No date window. No lume. Just good design doing its thing.

Source: Hodinkee

The Movement Is the Star

The real showstopper is what’s inside the watch - or more accurately, what’s on display. MB&F designed a whole new movement just for this project, and they’ve made it the visual centrepiece.

The SP One is built around three “floating” circles: one for the barrel (that powers the watch), one for the balance wheel (the part that ticks), and one for the actual time display. These are also the only things you really see on the front. Most of the other movement components are hidden underneath.

These three elements are held together visually by a three-armed bridge that looks kind of like a Mercedes-Benz logo. It’s sharp. Really sharp.

The small time dial - tucked down at 6 o’clock - is subtly angled toward the wearer, finished in a deep black sunray pattern with a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating. The hour markers are applied, faceted, and beautifully done.

Even the tiny, skeletonised hands have a story; apparently, they’re hand-finished with something called “tremblage,” which gives them a slightly textured look on top that contrasts with the polished edges. Sounds like some engineer talk, but the end result is genuinely cool, and makes the time easier to read.

Source: Hodinkee

Finishing Touches That Matter

Flip the watch over and you’ll find even more to admire. The movement has a mix of contemporary layout and traditional finishing - gold chatons, beautifully beveled edges, polished screws, and wheels with handmade anglage (that satisfying bevel on every edge).

The whole calibre sits in a recessed ring MB&F calls the “amphitheater,” which adds colour and depth. It’s done in pale blue on the platinum version and dark grey (almost anthracite) on the rose gold one. Both watches feature sapphire crystals on the front and back, with anti-reflective coating so you can see every detail - including, let’s be honest, your wrist hair.

Source: Hodinkee

The Philosophy Behind SP One

So why is it called “Special Project One”? Because it’s not a Legacy Machine. It’s not a Horological Machine. It’s something in between.

Where most MB&F watches can’t help but attract attention, the SP One just kind of…is. It’s intimate. Understated. Weirdly elegant.

It’s Max Büsser showing us what his idea of “simple” looks like - and it still feels entirely original.

Honestly, MB&F are really overdoing themselves this year. It’s their 25th anniversary after all. I genuinely look forward to whatever they’ll release next.

Price and Availability

• The rose gold version is priced at around €70,000
  
  

• The platinum one will set you back about €75,000
  
  

These aren’t limited editions, but knowing MB&F, production will be naturally limited by how long it takes to hand-finish and assemble each piece.

Source: Hodinkee

Final Thoughts

The SP One probably isn’t the MB&F you dreamed of owning when you first got into the brand. It’s not outrageous. It’s not oversized. It doesn’t look like a space crab or a transformer.

But that’s kind of why I love it.

It’s MB&F turning the volume down, but not turning off. There’s still sauce here - just more subtle. It’s for the collector who’s already done the wild stuff and wants something with depth.

Sure, I could nitpick the caseback being a little too open, especially if your wrist tan is, uh, aggressively visible. But that's a small trade-off for a watch that manages to feel new without shouting about it.

If anything, the SP One proves that restraint can be just as radical as excess, especially when it comes from a brand that usually throws everything at the wall.

TL;DR:

• What it is: MB&F’s smallest, slimmest watch ever - a 38mm dress-style piece called the Special Project One.
  
  

• Why it matters: A major tonal shift for a brand known for wild, large watches.
  
  

• Design: Floating lugs, angled dial, minimalist layout - still very “MB&F” but more refined.
  
  

• Movement: Fully in-house, with three floating circles and hand-finished details.
  
  

• Price: ~€70,000 (rose gold), ~€75,000 (platinum).
  
  

The vibe: Still MB&F, but less loud. Surprisingly wearable. A minimalist MB&F for the design lovers.