H. Moser & Cie. Adds Purple and Turquoise Fire to Its Enamel Lineup
If you’re into watches, there’s a good chance you’ve already scrolled past a million big launches from Watches & Wonders this week. It’s overwhelming, I get it. In between all the noise, H. Moser & Cie. quietly dropped two new pieces that made me stop scrolling. Not because of complications or hype, but because of dials that honestly make you want to just sit and stare.
Moser’s new releases are two additions to their Endeavour Concept series: one with a deep, vivid purple enamel dial, and the other a turquoise iteration with a flying tourbillon. And if you’re wondering - yes, these are those “no logo, no text, just vibes” watches. And I kind of love that.
Why These Are Cool (Even If You’ve Seen Similar Moser Models Before)
The Endeavour Concept line is all about stripping the watch of all the “unnecessary” additions. No name. No brand. No indices. Just that classic Moser leaf handset floating over some of the most dramatic dials in modern watchmaking.
The brand’s been playing with materials like Vantablack and aventurine glass for years, but lately, their enamel work - especially with these rich fumé finishes - has been really attention-worthy. These two new releases double down on that momentum, showing just how far you can push colour and texture when you let the craftsmanship speak for itself.
Source:GMTIndia
The Purple Dial - Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel
Let’s start with the more “wearable” of the two: the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel. It’s housed in a 40mm stainless steel case, with elegant curves and high-polish surfaces that make it feel a little fancier than your average daily wearer, but not so much that you couldn’t pull it off with jeans.
The real magic, though, is the dial. It starts with a hammered white gold base, which gives it this tactile, almost organic texture under the enamel. Then, six different purple pigment tones are mixed, applied, and fired multiple times to achieve that lush gradient - from deep royal purple in the center to a smoky edge that fades to near-black. The final result is a dial that’s alive. One that plays with the light in ways photos just don’t capture.
It’s paired with Moser’s new-ish HMC 201 automatic movement, featuring partially skeletonized bridges and the brand’s signature double hairspring (which helps reduce positional errors for better timekeeping). You also get a transparent caseback, so there’s plenty of mechanical eye candy on both sides.
Price is currently sitting at €27,600. And it comes on a purple kudu leather strap, which is the kind of offbeat detail I personally appreciate.
Source:GMTIndia
The Crazier Sibling - Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel
If you want the version that brings the entire premise to another level, look for the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel. Same idea: hammered white gold base, layers of enamel, gradient effect - but this time, it’s a punchy turquoise colour that feels halfway between a glacial lagoon and a 1980s Lago di Garda postcard. In the best way possible.
The case is 40mm and crafted in warm 5N red gold, which creates a high-contrast vibe that somehow still feels cohesive. It’s like hot and cold in the same watch - gold and turquoise isn’t a combo you’d usually go for, but here it just… works.
There’s a cutout on the dial at 6 o’clock for the one-minute flying tourbillon, which is also equipped with Moser’s double hairspring system. The movement is the automatic HMC 805, and it’s got a three-day power reserve and some thoughtful skeletonization to keep things visually interesting without going overboard.
On the wrist, this one definitely feels more “statement piece” than daily driver. It’s paired with a matching red gold folding clasp and an ostrich leather strap, priced at €76,500.
Source:GMTIndia
Why I’m Into These (And Why You Might Be Too)
Let’s be honest - these aren’t cheap watches. Most of us won’t be adding them to our collections anytime soon. But I still get excited about stuff like this, because it shows what happens when a brand fully commits to its design language. Moser isn’t trying to be everything to everyone. They’ve got a strong identity, and these watches reflect that.
The Concept series in particular is Moser’s way of poking the rest of the watchmakers. There’s no name on the dial because there doesn’t need to be. If you know, you know. And the enamel work… well, that’s not just some decoration. It takes serious skill and patience to pull off. We’re talking multiple firings, pigment layering, and tons of room for error. Mess up once, and the dial’s ending in the trash. You start over.
But the payoff is a dial that has depth, warmth, and character. The purple enamel model, especially, feels like it could be the future heirloom kind of watch - one that still feels fresh 20 years from now.
Source:GMTIndia
A Quick Note About the Movements
I’ve seen a few people online wondering if this new purple Centre Seconds version is replacing the lime green enamel model Moser dropped a few years ago. Short answer: nope. They’re keeping both in the lineup (at least for now), though this new one uses the upgraded HMC 201 calibre. Personally, I wouldn’t be surprised if the green eventually gets a movement update too - it’s a bit behind visually compared to the more modern finishing on the 201.
The Tourbillon, meanwhile, keeps doing its thing. It’s not the most complicated movement in Moser’s arsenal, but it’s arguably one of the most visually striking, especially with the negative space of the Concept dial giving it room to breathe.
Source:GMTIndia
Final Thoughts
I wasn’t at Watches & Wonders, but even from my laptop, it’s easy to see that Moser knows how to stay in its lane and still surprise us. These two enamel dials don’t reinvent the wheel. But they refine it, polish it, and throw on some colour that feels fresh, fun, and very intentional.
Are these watches for everyone? No. They’re not supposed to be. But if you love dials - like really love dials - then these are two of the most dial-forward pieces of the year so far. And in a world full of overbranded releases, I’ll take that any day.
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