What 10 Years Did To These Watches

Watches have always had value, and a few references were “collectable,” but the way prices have (mostly) grown since then feels almost surreal. What used to be expensive has become “investment-grade”… and what used to be somewhat attainable has basically vaulted itself into a completely new tax bracket.

 

Instead of talking theory, I wanted to look at five specific models that perfectly show how the last ten years changed the luxury watch landscape. These are pieces most of us instantly recognise.

Let’s go model by model.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167R-001

Back in the mid-2010s, the Aquanaut in rose gold felt like the more relaxed cousin of the Nautilus. It was sporty, clean, comfortable, but not the global piece it is today. Fast forward ten years and the 5167R-001, which retailed for around 22,800€, now trades up to 116,000€.

That is a jump so dramatic that you almost need to take a second to make sure you didn’t misread the numbers.

What changed?

Three things:

• Scarcity became part of Patek’s brand strategy.
  
  

• Everyone suddenly wanted a rose gold sports watch.
  
  

• Social media turned the Aquanaut into a lifestyle symbol.
  
  

This is the kind of value trajectory that makes newcomers think every watch in the boutique is a lottery ticket. Spoiler: most aren’t. The 5167R is simply at the intersection of hype, limited production, and genuinely beautiful design.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 26401RO.OO.A002.CA.01 

If you ask someone who got into watches recently, they might think all APs exploded in value in the last ten years. And while that’s true for some Royal Oaks, the Royal Oak Offshore 26401RO in rose gold followed a different path.

Its retail price floated around 33,100€, and the current market sits roughly in the 30,000€ range.

In other words, it went slightly backwards.

Not every piece is a hit, even though most people try to sell you that idea.

Patek Philippe World Time 5130P

The Patek 5130P, in platinum with that gorgeous World Time layout, was once the go-to recommendation for collectors who wanted something high horology without stepping into the steel-sports territory.

Its price originally sat around 26,500€, and today you’ll find it between 26,500€ and 35,500€.

Compared to triple-digit growth, this might seem pretty modest. But the 5130P never tried to be a hype piece.

Its value trajectory reflects exactly what the watch represents: slow, steady, and mature.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 26240ST.OO.1320ST.07

Now here’s where things get interesting.

Modern steel Royal Oaks were already hot ten years ago, but references like the 26240ST have rewritten the rulebook. Retail used to hover around 11,000€, and now examples commonly sit anywhere from 11,000€ to 50,000€ depending on condition, year, and configuration.

This is what happens when:

• Demand always exceeds supply
  
  

• The design is basically the definition of luxury sports
  
  

• The watch becomes a global fashion symbol
  
  

Some collectors argue the prices are inflated. Maybe. But the Royal Oak is an icon and the price hike is absolutely justified in this case.

Rolex Day-Date 228235

The Day-Date 40 in rose gold, reference 228235, is one of the rare watches whose price rise feels natural.

A decade ago, retail was around 24,700€. Today, you're looking at 24,700€ to 49,000€, depending on the dial variant and condition.

What drove this?

• The rise of rose gold as the “modern king” of precious metals.
  
  

• Rolex’s insane brand momentum.
  
  

• Pop culture influence (rappers, athletes, and CEOs).
  
  

• The simple fact that a Day-Date = you made it in life.